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Onion
Valley - July 4th Weekend 2003
When
I first heard of Onion Valley, and was told it was
found somewhere off Highway 395, I didn't have high
expectations. I'd never heard of the place, and its
name implied some flat, agricultural monotony like
the San Joaquin Valley. Furthermore, its location
near the 395 reinforced an impression of arid
wasteland. Having driven to Mammoth Mountain
countless times up the 395, I've spent many hours
traveling through the desert of Owens Valley. In
short, I expected to spend the Fourth of July
weekend camping in some dry chaparral, the only
water that which we brought with us.
I
couldn't have been more wrong. Driving up a
mountain road from Independence, California, a
homely town in the middle of Owens Valley, we found
ourselves in the middle of an idyllic alpine valley
at the end of the road. Onion Valley Campground
sits at 9,200 feet, where a trail leads up the
eastern side of the Sierra Nevada range to
Kearsarge Pass, the eastern entrance to Kings
Canyon National Park. From Onion Valley,
pine-covered slopes rise to jagged peaks, down
which cataracts of snowmelt pour in cascading
splendor.
Though
we didn't hike all the way to Kearsarge Pass, we
ascended well over 10,000 feet, past several alpine
lakes and into the John Muir Wilderness. In one of
the lakes, Gilbert Lake, scores of golden trout
continually leapt from the water, undoubtedly
feasting on insects buzzing the surface of the
lake. Patches of snow still speckled the craggy
peaks, feeding the lakes a continuous supply of
ice-cold water.
Though
the temperatures were quite mild, I couldn't resist
a dip in the rapid flow of one of the streams we
encountered. I hollered uncontrollably when the icy
water covered me, but I emerged into the warm
sunshine quite refreshed.
I
did not see a single legume growing in Onion
Valley, and the landscape couldn't have been any
more different than the arid desert I expected.
Truly, the place shattered all expectations, and
made me wonder why I haven't spent more time
exploring the Sierra Nevada.
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Content,
photography & design © 2001-2003 Michael
Strickland
All photographs digitally watermarked
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Photos

Gateway
to the John Muir Wilderness

One
of several lakes on the way to Kearsarge
Pass

Bodart
Falls near
the trailhead
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